Making sausage is one of those lost arts that really is not so difficult as it sounds. At its core, a sausage is simply ground meat and fat, salt, and flavorings. you don’t even have to stuff it into links if you don't want to. Yet the flavor of a well-made link surpasses the sum of its parts, and a truly great sausage is fit to be served as a main course at a fancy dinner.
Good sausage is all about balance. Balance of salt and savory, balance of meat and fat, balance of spices and herbs within the whole. Knowing a proper ratio of salt to meat (and fat) is essential, but once you understand it you can adjust to your own perception of saltiness, which varies wildly among people.
Some sort of liquid helps tighten the bind when you mix the sausage meat; and without this bind you have hamburger, not sausage. You also need a proper amount of fat, at least 20 percent — I have not yet met a low-fat sausage worth eating.
But beyond those “rules,” your ingredient list is limited only by your imagination. You can toss in as many or as few herbs and spices and other flavorings as you’d like. What liquid to use? Anything from water to fruit juice to wine to cream.
What sort of meat? Usually pork, but beef and lamb are also good, as are game animals. Do you want a fine grind or a coarse one? How much fat? I like 25 to 30 percent, but you could go as high as 50 percent.
A good start is a typical Italian sweet sausage, and this is what I’ll walk you through here. Sweet sausage is only slightly sweet — it’s really called so to differentiate it from the Italian hot sausage, which has paprika, chiles, and oregano.
Before you begin you do need some specialized equipment; this is what keeps many cooks from bothering with sausage.
First, you need a proper meat grinder or bowl cutter. I suggest the attachment for industrial stand mixer as a good start. meat grinders or bowl cutters are good, too. You need at least two dies—coarse and fine—that dictate how wide the strands of ground meat will be when they emerge from the grinder.
You will also need a good scale, as most sausage recipes use weight, not volume to properly measure ingredients; a little too much or too little salt in a sausage and you can ruin it. Precision matters.
Are you going to stuff your sausages into casings? Then you need a sausage stuffer. Quality stuffers can run several hundred dollars, but if you plan to make sausage with any frequency, I highly recommend spending the cash. Do not stuff your sausages using the grinder attachment, as it will get the mixture too hot and can ruin the texture. Either do this right or leave your sausages loose.
If you do stuff your sausages, you need casings. Most decent butchers make their own sausages and will sell you hog casings, which are the scrubbed, salted intestines of a pig. (Don’t feed these sausages to those who cannot eat pork! I once knew a guy who made a lamb sausage so Jewish friends could eat it, but forgot and stuffed them in hog casings. That did not go over too well.)
The first thing you need to know is that you want your ingredients all laid out and at the right temperature BEFORE you begin. Start by making sure the meat and fat are extremely cold by putting them in the freezer for an hour or two. You can even use fat straight from the freezer, as frozen fat cuts better.
Why the emphasis on temperature? Think of it like pie dough, where you want the butter to stay separate from the dough — if the butter gets too hot, it ruins it. Same with sausage. You really, really want to avoid “smear.”
A good way to tell if your sausage meat and fat are cold enough is if your hands start to hurt and go numb while handling it. You are looking for as close to 32 degrees as you can get without actually freezing the meat — using pre-frozen meat is fine, but you if you then refreeze it, it will suffer greatly in quality.
This carries through to your equipment. Put your bowls and your grinder in the freezer or at least the refrigerator for at least an hour before using them. I can’t say it enough: Cold, cold, cold.
You also need to be prepared to spend a few hours on this project. Under pressure, I can make a 5-pound batch in an hour, and pros are even faster than I am. But when I first started it took me several hours. Don’t have anything planned and leave distractions behind. You get breaks in the middle of this process, so worry not.
